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      <title>SATA Vietnam 2006 Blog</title>
      <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/</link>
      <description>Connecticut College student David Owyang &apos;07,  on one of CC&apos;s unique Study Away/Teach Away programs - SATA Vietnam 2006 - offers imagery, insight and observations on his studies and sojourns while spending the semester with his professors in the bustling city of Hanoi, Vietnam. </description>
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      <copyright>Copyright 2007</copyright>
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         <title>End of the semester</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/girlanddog.jpg"><img alt="girlanddog.jpg" src="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/girlanddog-thumb.jpg" width="250" height="166" align="left" hspace="5" /></a>The semester is ending in 9 days and we are all preparing for our exams. On Monday we have our Vietnamese oral exam. This is the most important exam because we'll see how well we've learned Vietnamese over the past four months. I'm sure that everyone will do well!</p>

<p>Needless to say, our time in Hanoi has gone by very quickly. We've visited so many places in Hanoi and around Vietnam. Hanoi is a great city. It has so much to offer. It has been a pleasure living and learning here. I will miss walking around the narrow streets, dodging traffic, and buying fruit from basket ladies.</p>

<p><a href="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/fishingboat.jpg"><img alt="fishingboat.jpg" src="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/fishingboat-thumb.jpg" width="250" height="166" align="left" hspace="5"/></a>SATA Vietnam is an academic program, but much of our learning took place outside the classroom. What we saw outside on the streets, in the handicraft villages, at the floating markets, and in the mountains was enhanced by our coursework. Most of all, it was interacting with people that taught us the most. As I've posted previously, on a daily basis people mistake me as being Vietnamese. In fact, it just happened to me while I've been typing this post. Bargaining with basket ladies and motorbike drivers has significantly improved our pronunciation of numbers, but occasionally a brief conversation will ensue. We may understand only a few words of the conversation, but it's enough for us to respond.</p>

<p>I have had a wonderful time here, and now I'm trying to figure out how and when I can come back. To the Connecticut College students who haven't studied abroad: apply for SATA Vietnam.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/05/end_of_the_semester.html</link>
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         <pubDate>Thu, 04 May 2006 06:09:51 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Halong bay</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>This weekend we went to Halong bay. On the way in a few of us took a swim around the picturesque islands. It was beautiful up until it started raining. On Saturday, I took a short boat ride around the harbor of Cat Ba island with a few other students. We saw hundreds of fishing boats of all sizes and boat houses. It was interesting to see the community that developed there. Around Halong bay there are numerous floating villages that make up the fishing industry. Later in the morning we spent some time on the beach. Zach and I rented a kayak and explored a nearby island and explored the surrounding waters. For dinner we took the opportunity to taste the seafood of Halong bay. We ordered crab, two kinds of clams, two fish, and shrimp. It was an amazing meal, easily among the top three I've had in Vietnam. The six of us stuffed ourselves for all of about $50.</p>

<p>That day Cat Ba island became very crowded because this weekend is a holiday in Vietnam. The holiday being the victory over the Americans. On Saturday night, while walking around after dinner, we encountered some Vietnamese, mostly young people, singing songs on a stage that had been set up. They invited us up to join their very large singing circle. It was a great time! </p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/04/halong_bay.html</link>
         <guid>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/04/halong_bay.html</guid>
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         <pubDate>Sun, 30 Apr 2006 21:37:06 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Sapa, mountains, and rice paddies</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/terrace.jpg"><img alt="terrace.jpg" src="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/terrace-thumb.jpg" width="250" height="166" align="left" hspace="5" /></a>Yesterday we returned from Sapa, which is in the northwest of the country. Sapa is a town in the mountains surrounded by many villages home to different ethnic minority groups. We spent two full days walking around the town and exploring the villages that surrounded Sapa. Because of the mountainous terrain, people have to farm on terraced land. The rice paddies were beautiful giant staircases. Although it was foggy most of the time we were there, the views were quite spectacular.</p>

<p>In Sapa we all encountered numerous children who spoke English very well. Many were younger than 10 and had learned English just from speaking with tourists. All were dressed in the traditional clothing of their respective villages. They sold bracelets, blankets, clothing, and various other souvenirs. Many of these goods were dyed in indigo; which is one of the plants grown around Sapa. </p>

<p>On the second day, I went off on my own to see what I could find. I headed up the mountains as far as I could and until I got above the fog. After three hours of walking on a narrow road, I made it to a peak where I could see the fog rolling through the surrounding hills. I then ventured down a dirt trail into a valley below in which I ended up in someone's vegetable field. From a distance I observed a few farmers tending to their crops.</p>

<p><a href="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/sapa.jpg"><img alt="sapa.jpg" src="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/sapa-thumb.jpg" width="250" height="166" align="left" hspace="5" /></a>Although the drives to and from Sapa were long, we drove through beautiful mountain passes. The roads were narrow and winded around steep cliffs. Along the way we saw the tallest mountain in Vietnam (Fansipan) and  numerous waterfalls. Now that we are back in Hanoi, I miss the fresh air and the silence of the mountains.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/04/sapa_mountains_and_rice_paddie.html</link>
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         <pubDate>Thu, 20 Apr 2006 06:04:30 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Our next trip</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>I've been a little under the weather lately, so I haven't been able to post. I missed an overnight trip that most of the group went on. The went to an ethnic minority village called Mai Chau and spent the night in a house on stilts. They walked around the village and saw traditional dancing and generally saw how ethnic minorities live. I'm told the setting was beautiful. The village was in a valley surrounded by mountains. Clean air, no noise, and beautiful scenery.</p>

<p>On Friday we'll be taking a 6 day trip to Sapa and Dien Bien Phu. Sapa is in the mountains and we'll see more ethnic minorities there. I've seen pictures of the terraced rice paddies in Sapa, but seeing it up close will be entirely different. I can't wait.</p>

<p>It's been getting quite hot in Hanoi, so our trip to Sapa should be a nice break from the heat.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/04/our_next_trip.html</link>
         <guid>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/04/our_next_trip.html</guid>
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         <pubDate>Tue, 11 Apr 2006 19:07:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Rice Paddies</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/ricepaddy.jpg"><img alt="ricepaddy.jpg" src="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/ricepaddy-thumb.jpg" width="250" height="166" align="left" hspace="5" /></a>Today I woke up at 6:30, like I normally do, and headed out as far away from the city as I could get. My plan was to take one of the city buses to the end of the line and get myself as lost as possible. Fortunately I didn't get lost, but I did succeed in finding what I was looking for: rice paddies. After exiting the bus I looked around to see where I could walk to. I followed the train tracks that paralleled the highway until I came to a road where I could cross the dyke. I then walked around the rice paddies crossing between different fields on little dirt paths. There were a few people working in the fields, but they didn't seem to mind my walking through their crops. It was very peaceful outside of the city. For the first time I couldn't hear any of the traffic, voices, and other ambient noise that is everywhere in Hanoi.</p>

<p><a href="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/basketlady.jpg"><img alt="basketlady.jpg" src="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/basketlady-thumb.jpg" width="250" height="166" align="left" hspace=5" /></a>To be exact, I was in the rice paddies that surrounded a small village in Ha Tay province. The name of this province was immediately recognizable to me because a good amount of the basket ladies that we interview are from this province. After walking around the rice paddies I ventured into the village to see what I could find. It was very small but still quite lively. There were only a handful of shops that I could find, but no where for me to get lunch.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/04/rice_paddies.html</link>
         <guid>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/04/rice_paddies.html</guid>
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         <pubDate>Sat, 01 Apr 2006 05:13:11 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Back in Hanoi</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>We got back to Hanoi on Saturday after much traveling around Cambodia and Vietnam. It was incredible to go to so many places and see some very interesting sites. Here are some pictures from our trip: http://oak.conncoll.edu/satagallery/</p>

<p>Out of the entire trip, my favorite part was touring the Mekong river delta in boats. Crossing into Vietnam from Cambodia was quite interesting. But it was visiting the floating markets around Can Tho that really struck me. Along the sides of the river we saw everything from people's homes to gas stations to rice mills. I doubt I'll do anything quite like it ever again.</p>

<p>In two weeks we'll be taking a week long trip to the northern highlands. We'll be visiting Dien Bien Phu and Sapa.</p>

<p>Now it's time to get back classes.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/03/back_in_hanoi.html</link>
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         <pubDate>Tue, 28 Mar 2006 09:41:52 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Ho Chi Minh City and the beach</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Ho Chi Minh city was more modern in many ways than Hanoi. The streets were less hectic because of greater use of traffic lights. It was also cleaner in that the curbs of the streets aren't filled with garbage. There are also numerous KFCs in HCMC; in Hanoi there are no fast food restaurants. But not all of HCMC is like this. On our day off I decided to go to the Cholon area. Cholon is where the Chinatown is located. I took a bus from near our hotel to Cholon so that I could see how the locals get there. There was a dramatic difference between the touristy area around our hotel and Cholon. It was far more similar to Hanoi than the rest of the city. The streets were crowded with motorbikes, garbage, and more people. Every storefront in Cholon had goods overflowing onto the sidewalk -- just like in Hanoi. In Chinatown I visited a few pagodas and a major market. The market was the largest I have seen in Vietnam, so far. Although you could buy goods like at any other market, it seemed as though this market also dealt in wholesale. Many goods were bundled together in large quantities.</p>

<p>Of the three days we spent in HCMC, we spent one day visiting the Cu Chi tunnels, which are located an hour or so from the city. In the town of Cu Chi, the Viet Cong had dug an extensive network of tunnels as part of the resistance against the Americans. We got to crawl through these tunnels (which had been enlarged for Western bodies) and see the different kinds of underground facilities: radio rooms, hospitals, kitchens (all of which were underground). Now, I'm not a very big person but even I had a hard time moving in these tunnels. I was duck-walking the entire time and bent over. It was incredibly hot inside and completely pitch black. The longest tunnel we went through was around 50 meters. The whole experience was fascinating because of the importance the tunnels played in the Vietnamese resistance.</p>

<p>Now I'm in Nha Trang which sits on the beach. We've been here two days and have spent the entire time relaxing and taking in the sun! Yesterday we all went out on a boat and snorkeled around an island. We saw lots of colorful fish and the coral. The beach and water are absolutely beautiful. </p>

<p>Tomorrow we'll get back on the road and head towards Hoi An and then Hue.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/03/ho_chi_minh_city_and_the_beach.html</link>
         <guid>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/03/ho_chi_minh_city_and_the_beach.html</guid>
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         <pubDate>Mon, 20 Mar 2006 04:48:15 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Angkor Wat, Phnom Penh, and the Mekong River</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Right now I'm in Can Tho which is a decent sized city that is the center of the Mekong delta region in Vietnam. I've got a lot to write about so I'll start from the begining of our trip. I don't have any pictures yet because I forgot my camera cord back in Hanoi.</p>

<p>Last week we flew to Siem Reap, Cambodia to visit Angkor Wat. For those that don't know, it's the biggest religious site in the world. It was incredibly amazing at how detailed it was. In the main area of five towers is surrounded by walls that depict various stories. We also went to a few of the other temples in the area, including the one where  the movie Tomb Raider was filmed. We ended or temple visiting day by enjoying a sunset at a temple at the top of a hill. It was very interesting to see the Hindu, Buddhist, and even Chinese influences on the temples. At one of the sites, the carvings on the wall depicted the influence of the Chinese in Cambodia. It showed how the Chinese brought cooking and gambling to the Khmer people.</p>

<p>From Siem Reap we drove to Phnom Penh. We visited the royal palace which had Thai-style architecture. We toured the gardens and numerous buildings within the palace. The buildings were all covered in gold. The next day we visited one of the prisons used to house Cambodians during the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge. Our tour guide had worked in a similar prison as a child, so his personal experiences added much detail to what he was showing us. At the prison we saw the various facilities used to house and torture people before the were sent to the killing fields. We then drove outside the city to visit the mass graves. What struck me was how fast all the terrible things happened. We learned that all the residents of Phnom Penh were forced out in 24 hours. Everyone was moved to the country side. This all happened in the five years before the Vietnamese invaded in 1979.</p>

<p>After four days in Cambodia, we returned to Vietnam. To get to Vietnam, we traveled down the Mekong river by boat. It was a very interesting boat ride because of the difference between the river in Cambodia and Vietnam. On the Cambodian side, the river was hardly used; few boats and very little along the shores of the river. Once we entered Vietnam, there were many more boats and houses, factories, and temples lined the shores. It was about a 4 hour boat ride to the town of Chau Doc. The following morning, Zach and I climbed Son mountain. Well in truth, we were on the back of a motorbike. The path up was closed and we didn't know where the access road was. At the top it was very foggy so we couldn't see the town or the Mekong. It was slightly disappointing, but it was still fun.</p>

<p>Our next stop was Can Tho, where I am now. Yesterday and today we visited two floating markets. These markets aren't where tourists buy things. Rather it's where the street vendors come to get their goods that they resell. The market is comprised of many bigger boats loaded with fruits and vegetables. They come to the market for a few days or a week and sell their goods. To advertise what they are selling, they hang the fruit or vegetable from a long pole that sticks up from the top of the boat.</p>

<p>Tomorrow we will drive to Ho Chi Minh city where we will stay for a few days. From there we'll drive along the coast.</p>

<p>I hope your spring breaks are as fun as mine!</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/03/angkor_wat_phnom_penh_and_the.html</link>
         <guid>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/03/angkor_wat_phnom_penh_and_the.html</guid>
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         <pubDate>Tue, 14 Mar 2006 04:37:54 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Spring break trip</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Tomorrow we will be leaving on our spring break trip. We will be back in Hanoi on March 25. Unfortunately, I won't be able to update the blog while we are away. But as soon as we return, I will post stories and pictures.</p>

<p>First, we will fly to Cambodia to visit Ankor Wat. Then we visit Phnom Penh for a day before heading towards the Vietnamese border where we will take a boat down the Mekong river. We'll make our way towards Ho Chi Minh city and then drive up north along the coast visiting various towns and cities. Before we fly back to Hanoi, our last stop is in the city of Hue.</p>

<p>Stay tuned!!</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/03/spring_break_trip.html</link>
         <guid>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/03/spring_break_trip.html</guid>
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         <pubDate>Wed, 08 Mar 2006 08:02:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Survey work</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>This afternoon was our third time out administering surveys for one of the economics courses that we are taking. We are asking basket ladies about their jobs, income, debt, child rearing, and division of labor in the household. All of our respondents are circular migrants and stay in Hanoi away from their homes for considerable time.</p>

<p>Although I am not actually enrolled in the course, I opted to join my peers and go out every week to interview these women street vendors. It's very fascinating hearing them talk about the debt that they have and the difficulties of working away from home. Each time they return home they bring back very little money. Many of the respondents I've talked with bring between 500,000 and 1,000,000 VND home each month (about $30 to $60). </p>

<p>Today, many said that the money goes to raising their children. In particular, they pay for school fees for the children.</p>

<p>The streets of Hanoi truly are our classroom. With each interview we learn something new about the basket ladies.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/03/survey_work.html</link>
         <guid>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/03/survey_work.html</guid>
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         <pubDate>Mon, 06 Mar 2006 08:54:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Bird flu</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/chickens.jpg"><img alt="chickens.jpg" src="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/chickens-thumb.jpg" width="250" height="166" align=left hspace=5 /></a>With all the recent news about bird flu spreading around the world, I think it may be appropriate to write about what I've seen here and my feelings about the matter. Before the semester, I was somewhat worried about bird flu. After more than a month of being in Hanoi, I am no more worried than before I left. We've been very near chickens many times, but just walking by them. Some of us, including myself, have even eaten chicken. It is true that chicken is not readily abundant, but it is also not impossible to find in the city. Most of the restaurants that we go to don't serve chicken, even though it is on the menu. Of the fourteen of us, nobody goes out of their way to avoid birds or chicken. My attitude towards the situation is that we have to live with it and there isn't anything we can do to prevent bird flu. Until the virus becomes transmissible between human, I won't change my behavior. We are more worried about our general health and avoiding stomach problems, which many of us have had.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/02/bird_flu_1.html</link>
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         <pubDate>Sun, 26 Feb 2006 01:06:51 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>The Pottery Village</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Yesterday, Alyssa, Fred and I traveled to Bat Trang. This village was about a 45-minute bus ride from Hanoi. We decided to go to Bat Trang because it is known for its pottery. The road to the village was bumpy and winding. It was no wider than one and a half lanes in the U.S. It was somewhat scary to see another bus coming towards ours on the narrow road, especially with so many motorbikes around. Along the way we saw numerous instances of the brick-making industry that all of us have read about. There were stacks and stacks of bricks sitting in the fields that we passed by. When we arrived in Bat Trang, the first thing that struck me was how empty the streets were. There was nobody to be seen or motorbikes swerving around us. We walked into the main market where all the ceramic goods were being sold. There was everything from small figurines to beautiful tea sets.</p>

<p>The real treat was walking around the village after shopping. The only movement in the streets was men pushing carts that carried large cans of clay. We realized that what we were seeing was the beginning of the pottery making process. The men were delivering the clay to homes where the clay was formed into various items, vases, teapots, flowerpots etc. We peeked into some of the homes and saw hundreds, if not thousands, of bowls and teacups in their final shape, but in an unfinished state. Some houses looked as if they had roaring fires inside. The walls were covered with black soot. We assumed that these houses were where the pottery was put into the kilns. Next we saw a large building that resembled a warehouse. We could see from the street that this is where the pottery received the glaze that produced the beautiful colors. It was truly amazing to see each step of the pottery making process.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/02/the_pottery_village.html</link>
         <guid>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/02/the_pottery_village.html</guid>
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         <pubDate>Fri, 17 Feb 2006 05:25:07 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>The Hat Village</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/DSC_3520-copy.jpg"><img alt="DSC_3520-copy.jpg" src="http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/DSC_3520-copy-thumb.jpg" width="250" height="166" align=left hspace=5 /></a>Today we took a short trip to a hat village. We walked through a market that had the usual fruits and vegetables for sale. Along the way I saw bicycle that was being used to carry what appeared to be numerous dozens of the conical hats. Later we walked over to a residential area where they actually make the hats. They aren't massed produced in a factory, but rather, they are made by hand. Skilled hat makers can make about two hats per day. We visited one of the homes that makes these hats and saw the materials, tools, and the process by which they are made. There are two layers of flattened and ironed grass that are separated by a layer of bamboo bark. The shape of the hat is formed by putting the layers on frame. It is temporarily held together with string while the layers are being sewn together. The final product is very beautiful. I didn't realize the amount of labor that goes into making these hats.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/02/the_hat_village_1.html</link>
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         <pubDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2006 04:52:27 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>A case of mistaken identity</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>Ever since we arrived in Hanoi, the Vietnamese have assumed that I am Vietnamese. I’m not shocked because I did expect that they might think I am one of them. Anytime I’m with other students from the group (none of whom are Asian), Vietnamese come up to me expecting that I’ll be able to translate for everyone else. For example, when we go out to dinner or into a store, the employees always talk directly to me. I then tell them three of the most valuable words I have learned here: sinh viên mỹ, which means "American student". It is pronounced: "sing veeyen me ee."</p>

<p>One day when I was buying some snacks in a small store, the shop owner began talking to me in Vietnamese. I told him that I was an American student. He then asked if I was Vietnamese. I replied, "Tôi là ngươi Trung Quôc" (which means "I am Chinese"). As soon as I told him that, he turned away and continued doing whatever it was he was doing. I'm not really sure what to make of this, but from the one history lesson that we've had so far, the Chinese weren't very successful in their multi-century long campaign to conquer Vietnam.</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/02/i_am_an_american_student.html</link>
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         <pubDate>Thu, 02 Feb 2006 22:05:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>A home cooked meal</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<p>The other day I was fortunate enough to have a home-cooked meal. The parents of Linh Vu '07 invited a Prof. Peppard, Max, and myself to lunch at their home. It was a wonderful opportunity to eat the local food. Needless to say, the food was excellent--much of it was prepared by Linh's younger sister. Some of the dishes that we ate were spring rolls, chicken, and fish with vegetables.</p>

<p>Later that day we all went to Hoan Kiem lake for dinner and then sat by the lake to watch the fireworks. We heard that it would be crowded there, but I know I didn't expect it to be as packed as it was. The entire lake was surrounded by people so thick you could barely move. We waited a good two hours for the fireworks to start, but it was worth it. By far it was one of the best display of fireworks I have ever seen!<br />
</p>]]></description>
         <link>http://sata-vietnamblog.conncoll.edu/2006/01/a_home_cooked_meal.html</link>
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         <pubDate>Sat, 28 Jan 2006 03:28:04 -0500</pubDate>
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